One day in Heraklion, the capital of Crete

Heraklion is the capital of Crete and has a rich historical and cultural heritage. As the largest city on the island, Heraklion offers visitors a unique mix of ancient landmarks, numerous myths, interesting buildings, taverns, and cafes where you can enjoy delicious Greek food and drinks.

 

How to get to Heraklion

Heraklion, also known as Iraklio, is well-connected and easily accessible. It can be reached by air, sea, or road.

By air: Heraklion International Airport “Nikos Kazantzakis” is the second busiest airport in Greece. It is located just 5 km east of the city centre. Heraklion is connected with domestic flights from Athens, Thessaloniki, and other Greek islands, and regular flights and charters with major European cities. You can take a taxi from the airport to the city centre, which takes about 10-15 minutes, or by public bus, which runs frequently and it is more affordable.

By Sea: Heraklion’s port is one of the largest in Greece. There are regular ferry connections to Athens (Piraeus), Santorini, Mykonos, and other islands in the Aegean Sea. It is a popular stop for cruisers, as well.

By Road: Heraklion is well-connected by road to other major towns such as Chania, Rethymno, and Agios Nikolaos. The main highway, E75, runs along the northern coast of Crete and provides a direct route to Heraklion. Renting a car is a popular way to explore the island because there are many beaches and interesting sights to visit.

 

A few words about the history of Heraklion

An ancient time of Heraklion

The ancient history of Heraklion is connected with the Minoan civilization and the famous Knossos Palace. Actually, Heraklion was the port of the Knossos, located about 4 km away, which was the political and economic centre of the Minoan era. Its ancient name was Heracleium, which was in honour of the hero Heracles (Hercules). The golden age of the Minoan civilization was from the 16th to the 14th century BC, but it collapsed about 1450 BC.

After the Hellenistic and Roman periods, Crete became part of the Byzantine Empire until the 9th century, when it was occupied by Arabs. They built a new town, Rabdh al Khandak (Castle of the Ditch), at the site of Heraklion. Then, the Byzantines took over the island again and controlled it until the 13th century, when Crete was occupied by the Venetians.

Venetians, Ottomans and present time

During the Venetian rule, which lasted four centuries, Crete and its towns Heraklion and Chania, flourished in trade, architecture, and the arts. Venetians called the city Candia. The battle between the Ottomans and the Venetians lasted for 21 years, and the Ottomans captured Crete in 1669. After many revolts, Crete got its autonomy in 1898 as the Cretan State. The city was renamed Heraklion, like in the ancient times. Crete became part of Greece in 1913.

Today, Heraklion is the the fourth largest city in Greece with about 154,000 inhabitants. It is Crete’s administrative and commercial centre, and it has the largest port and the largest airport on the island.

 

 

What to see in Heraklion

If your accommodation is in Heraklion, walking around and exploring the city is easy. We visited it during the organized one-day excursion from Agios Nikolaos, a town on the eastern side of Crete.

Knossos Palace

The most significant landmark of Heraklion and Crete is the Knossos Palace. It is a must-visit place to find out more about the famous Minoan civilization.

The complex with impressive palace remains and a grand courtyard, offers a fascinating glimpse into the life of the Minoans.
👉 You can read more about the stunning Knossos Palace here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Heraklion Archeologocial Museum

After visiting Knossos, continue your journey into Crete’s ancient past at the Heraklion Archaeological Museum.

Located in the city centre, this museum houses exhibits from the Neolithic period to the Roman era. You can see there the world’s largest collection of Minoan artefacts, including the famous Snake Goddess figurines, the Phaistos Disc, amazing Kamares Ware pottery, and the Bull-Leaping Fresco. 

👉  You can read more about the Heraklion Archeological Museum here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heraklion Old Town

And after the visit to the museum, we walked to the nearby old town. It consists of narrow streets, local shops, cafes, taverns, small squares, interesting buildings, and Venetian walls.

 

The Venetian Loggia

One of the most famous buildings in Heraklion is the Venetian Loggia, located in the centre, in 25th Avgoustou Street.

Generally, the Loggia was an essential public building in every Venetian city. This loggia is the fourth and only remained in Heraklion, built in the place of the third Loggia.

 

It was built in 1626-1628 by Francesco Morosini, the General Proveditor of Crete. The impressive architecture of the edifice reminds of the Basilica of Palladio in Vicenza, combining the Dorian style on the ground floor, and the Ionian style on the first floor.

It was a meeting place for the aristocrats and nobles to discuss economic and political issues. Also, it was used as their gentlemen’s club and for various social events. During the Turkish occupation, it became the Ottoman administrative centre.

 

The building was almost destroyed after the earthquake of 1856 and after a few renovations, it was completely restored in 1980. Inside the complex, you can see an atrium where you can see a blue sky, which makes it more interesting.

By the way, in 1987, the Loggia got “The Europa Nostra award” for the best-renovated European monument of the year.
Today, the Loggia is used as the City Hall of Heraklion.

 

Sagredo Fountain is located on the north wall of the Loggia, in a narrow alley. It was built by the Duke of Crete, Giovanni Sagredo, between 1602 and 1604, and used by the nobles’ needs and Noblemens Club in Loggia.

Today, only the remains of a wall female statue can be seen. The basin around it was destroyed in the Second World War.

 

The Cathedral of Saint Titus

Close to the Loggia, you can see the Cathedral of Saint Titus, the Orthodox church dedicated to Saint Titus. Titus was a Greek and a companion and disciple of St. Paul the Apostle.

 

First, a Byzantine church was founded at this place in the 10th century. Then, the Venetians rebuilt it in 1446 and 1550. However, they took the sacred relics and brought them to Venice after the Ottoman occupation. The church transformed into a mosque, but it was destroyed completely by an earthquake in 1856.

The present church was built in 1869 as the Yeni Cami or New Mosque. In 1925, the mosque was converted into a Christian church, and it was declared a cathedral in 2013.

 

Only one relic – the skull of Titus was returned from Venice to the church in 1966. It is displayed in a silver reliquary in a chapel. In the middle, you can see a carved wood chandelier, and the wooden iconostasis with icons.

 

The entrance is free, but you can donate some money if you like, or light a candle.
Sunrays through stained glass windows made interesting reflections on the floor.

 

Around the church, there is Titus Square and a small park with palms, benches, and a fountain. It is also a pedestrian zone with bars, cafes, shops and Hondos Centre, the favourite shopping place for ladies.

 

Lions Square and The Morosini Fountain

The most famous fountain in the town is the Lions Fountain or Morosini Fountain.
It got its name from Francesco Morosini, known for the building of the Venetian Loggia. Also, under his rule, a 15 km long aqueduct was constructed for transporting fresh water from the mountain into Heraklion town.

The fountain was built in 1629 in today’s Eleftheriou Venizelos Square. It is known by locals as the Lion Square after the four lions in the middle of the fountain. The lion’s head flanks the eight basins, and it can be reached from all sides. The fountain is decorated with the Venetian coats of arms and relief sculptures. Bear in mind that the water is not drinkable, and today it is not allowed to stay close to the structure.

 

By the way, Francesco Morosini belonged to the noble Venetian family Morosini and was also a Doge of Venice. He was a great military leader, known as the commander in the war between the Venice and Ottoman Empire. He captured the Morea—Peloponnese peninsula, and we saw his influence during our visit to the Methoni Castle.

👉 You can read more about the interesting Methoni, the Sea Castle in Peloponnese here.

There are many various shops, cafes, bars, and restaurants around the fountain where you can take a break. The fairy-tale Hans & Gretel’s sweet shop serves delicious gelato and various sweets, which attracts both kids and adults, as well.  

 

 St. Mark Basilica

 

The Market Street – 1866 Street

South of Lions Square, there is 1866 Street called “Market Street”.
The street got the name “1866” after the Great Cretan Revolution (1866-1869) against the Ottoman occupation.

Take a walk in this traditional agora, among the small shops and stalls with fresh products, such as honey, spices, olives, olive oil, cheese, etc.

 

There are various souvenirs, natural cosmetic products, jewellery, clothes, leather bags, belts and sandals, and Cretan knives (the Cretan cultural symbol). Also, you can take a break in small cafes and taverns.

 

At the end of Market Street is Kornorou Square, where you can see an Ottoman fountain and the Bembo Fountain.

 

The Ottoman Sebil and the Bembo Fountain

The Ottoman Sebil (Philanthropic Fountain) was built in 1776 by Hadji Ibrahim Aga. It is the only remaining sebil in the town (sebil is the Ottoman public fountain). This building has a hexagonal structure and water taps under the arched windows.

Once, it was used by thirsty travellers. Also, it enabled purification before the prayer in the Valida Sultana Mosque which once was located in Kornarou Square.

In the present time, the small space of a building is used as a café with outside-only seating.

 

A few meters away, there is the Bembo Fountain. It was built between 1552 and 1554, and named after the Venetian Gianmatteo Bembo who built it.

Actually, it was the first fountain that supplied Venetian Candia with running water. It consists of various elements in white marble, including a basin (a former Roman sarcophagus) and a headless Roman statue brought from Ierapetra.

 

Statues of Aretousa and Erotokritos

On Kornorou Square, you can find a pair of interesting sculptures. They represent Aretousa and Erotokritos.

Well, it is a Greek version of the love story of Romeo and Juliet.  The romance story was written by Vincenzo Kornaro (1553-1613), the greatest Cretan poet, and it is considered a Cretan Renaissance Masterpiece. The Kornarou Square was named after him.

So, the scene represents Erotokritos on his horse, saying goodbye to his loved one, Aretousa, the daughter of the King of Athens, Heracles. Their love was forbidden. The king sent Arethousa to prison, to “cure” her from the “love’s blindness”, and Erotokritos into exile.

But, this story had a fortunate end. They reunited and vowed eternal happiness, with the king’s blessing. By the way, this love story is a subject in many folk poetry and music, as well as in theatre performances and art exhibitions.

 

The Agios Minas Church

Agios Minas Cathedral is one of the most impressive and largest churches of Crete. It is the metropolitan temple of the patron and protector of the city of Heraklion, Saint Minas. It is celebrated on the 11th November, which is a public holiday for Heraklion.

 

The Agios Minas Church was built between 1862 and 1895. The interior of the church is richly decorated, with the wood-carved iconostasis and icons.

 

 

Many legends are connected with Saint Minas, and his protection of the town, from the Turkish attack to the German bombing in 1941. The bomb fell next to the church and staircase that leads to the plateau of St. Catherine, but it never exploded.

 

The small temple of St. Minas and Pantanassa

In front of Agios Minas, there is a small church built in the Venetian times. It was the first church of Agios Minas, known by locals as the “Little Agios Minas“. After the renovation in 1735, it became the Christian centre during the Turkish occupation.

One tragic event was connected with this church, when the Turks killed all civilians, the bishop and monks during mass in June 1821. But the miracle happened at Easter that year. The Turks planned to attack again, but a mysterious cavalryman appeared in front of them with his sword, chasing them away from the temple. According to the legend, it was St. Minas, the protector of the city.

Many icons in the temple that have survived to this day are works of Cretan icon painters of the 18th century. However, the church was closed during our visit, and we could not see them.

 

We walked to the plateau with the Agia Aikaterini Church on the other side of the Saint Minas Church.

 

Agia Aikaterini – Saint Catherine Church

The Church of Agia Ekaterini belonged to the Orthodox Venetian Monastery of Saint Catherine, a dependency of Sinai. The church was originally built around the 13th or 14th century, during the early Venetian times.

 

The monastery served as an educational institution and the Cretan school of iconography from the mid-16th to the mid-17th century.

The church was converted to a Muslim mosque in 1669, until the early 20th century, when Crete became autonomous. Today, it houses the Ecclesiastical Museum of Heraklion, with many rare icons ecclesiastical vestments, manuscripts, and frescoes. 

 

25th August street

The most historic and beautiful street is the 25th August Street (25th Avgoustos Street). It is a popular pedestrian street and shopping area with various shops, souvenirs, cafes, restaurants, and ice cream shops.

 

It was known as the Ruga Maistra in the Venetian time, and Vizier Casci during the Ottoman rule. But the current name is connected with the tragic event which took place on the 25th of August in 1898 when the Turks massacred hundreds of Christian Cretans, British soldiers, and the vice-consul of England.

The 25th August Street stretches from Lion’s Square to the Venetian old harbour. Walking around, the beautiful buildings in the neoclassical style can be seen.

 

One of the most interesting buildings is “The Liopyrakis Megaron”. It was one of the most luxurious mansions constructed in the first two decades of the 20th century. By the way, at that time, the 25th of August Street was called ‘The Avenue of Fallacy”, because it gave the impression of wealth, but on its end, there were only old and poor houses.

 

Venetian walls and port

Heraklion is known by the Venetian walls which are among the best-preserved fortifications in the Mediterranean. The walls were built in the 16th century to protect the town from Ottoman attacks, on pre-existing Byzantine walls.
The defensive walls stretch about 7 km in the form of a triangle, surrounding the town. There were seven bastions and four gates.

 

Koules Fortress and shipyards

The harbour entrance was protected by the Koules Fortress (koules means fortress in Turkish), known as Rocca al Mare. It is a landmark of the town and the symbol of the Venetian heritage. After the 21-year-long Siege of Candia, the Venetians surrendered the town to the Ottomans in 1669.

 

Today, the fortress has been restored. The visitors can walk around the walls and climb to the top to enjoy panoramic views of the town and see. Cultural events and art exhibitions are occasionally held inside the fortress. A few cannons, cannonballs, and clay jars can be seen in the Castle Museum as well.

 

The ground floor consists of 26 rooms which were used to store food, ammunition and as a water reservoir.  Some of the rooms were a prison for the Cretan fighters during the Ottoman rule. On the upper floor, there is a big courtyard where once were the soldiers’ barracks, the officers’ quarters, a bakery, a mill, and a small church.

The relief of the winged Venetian lion, the symbol of the patron saint of Venice, can be seen on the north wall of the fortress.

 

Dockyards and shipyards were constructed both on the north and eastern parts of the harbour between the 15th and 17th centuries. Once, there were 19 Venetian Shipyards, which were used for the construction and repair of Venetian ships. But today, only six shipyards can be seen. The similar shipyards we saw in the Old Town of Chania.

 

Beaches around Heraklion

From Heraklion, you can rent a car or take a bus (check KTEL schedule and routes) to visit the most popular beaches around Heraklion.
On the western side of town, there are  Ammoudara Beach, Paleokastro Beach, Theseus Beach, and Agia Pelagia. On the eastern side, there are beaches such as Karteros, Tobrouk, Amnissos, Analipisi etc.
Malia is the most popular beach resort in Heraklion, located about 36 km from Heraklion. It is famous as an excellent nightlife spot in Crete, as well as the remains of one of the most important Minoan palaces.

The most popular beach in Heraklion region is a sandy Matala Beach in the southern part of Crete. It is known for its unique and ancient caves where hippies from all over the world lived in the 1960s and 1970s.

👉 You can read more about Matala Beach and caves here. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What to visit more around Heraklion

Besides the beaches, and depending on your time and interests, you can visit a few interesting places around Heraklion.

♦ The Historical Museum and The Museum of Natural History with exhibits of the Cretan flora and fauna, are located in the town.
◊ Take a Hop-On, Hop-Off Tour Buses to see the city’s main attractions.
♦ Go to Crete Aquarium, the largest aquarium in the Mediterranean in Gourmes, about a 20-minute drive from Heraklion.
◊ Discover the ancient city of Gortyn.
♦ Take a day trip to the Palace of Phaistos, another marvellous Minoan palace.
◊ Visit Fodele village, the birthplace of El Greco, the great Greek painter of the Spanish Renaissance.
♦ If you are in good fit and like hiking, you will enjoy the Samaria Gorge, a 16 km long gorge through beautiful nature.
◊ Visit charming Agios Nikolaos town.
♦ Explore Archanes, a traditional Cretan village.

 

Visit Heraklion & Crete

Whatever you decide to see and do in Heraklion town and region, you can enjoy the island all year round.
Summers are long and warm, perfect for the beach, and winters are mild.

So, make a plan and visit the beautiful island of Crete 🙂