Trebinje, the town of sun and plane trees

Trebinje is one of the most beautiful towns in the Balkans. It is located under Mount Leotar, in the valley of the river Trebišnjica, in the southernmost part of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

We enjoyed walking around the Old Town and along the banks of River Trebišnjica. And we visited the two most important holy places in BiH, the Monastery Tvrdoš and Hercegovačka Gračanica.

Perhaps, our great writer Momo Kapor gave the best description of Trebinje:

“Trebinje is neither a village nor a metropolis. It is a metaphor, a dream! It is a bright spot in the life of Herzegovinians, it is the place they dream of settling in when they grow old.
Trebinje is Mediterranean. Because, while you sit there and look at the tops of the cypress trees, you feel that the sea is behind the hills. Life there is like being at the sea…”

Trebinje, River Trebišnjica

📍How to get to Trebinje

Administratively, Trebinje belongs to the Republic of Srpska, BiH. It is situated on three borders of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia and Montenegro.

It is easily accessible by road because it is 27 km away from Dubrovnik (Croatia), 45 km from Herceg Novi, and 60 km from Tivat (Montenegro). The nearest airport Čilipi is in Dubrovnik, and from there, you can go by car or taxi to Trebinje. There are no bus lines between these two towns.

Trebinje is 476 km away from Belgrade, but it takes more than seven hours to drive. From Serbia, follow the highway Miloš Veliki to Užice and Zlatibor, and pass the Kotroman custom checkpoint to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Then, follow the road to Višegrad, Goražde, Foča, Tjentište, Gacko, Bileće to Trebinje. The nature around the road is beautiful, but be careful while you drive from Foča to Trebinje (about 133 km). The road is narrow and very winding, and it is not in good condition.

According to the project about the Trebinje airport, the first flights can be expected in 2028.

On the road to Trebinje

Useful information for visiting Trebinje

♦ Best time to visit: spring and early autumn are ideal for mild weather and festivals. The climate is Mediterranean with short mild winters, and long hot summers, while the autumns are usually warmer than spring. The snow is very rare. By the way, there are around 260 sunny days in a year.

◊ Currency: Convertible Mark (BAM); 1 mark is approximately 0,51 EUR. There are several exchange offices in the centre (you can pay with EUR as well).

♦ Bring cash. Many places accept cards. But you will need cash for some locations and products on the city market.

Trebinje flowers and plane trees

A few words about the history of Trebinje

Trebinje has a rich history shaped by the Illyrians, the Romans, the Slavs, the Ottomans and the Austro-Hungarians.

First, its name was mentioned in the writings of the Byzantine emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus in the 10th century. The old name of the city was Tribunia (Travunia).

From 1168 to 1375, it was under the rule of the Nemanjić Dynasty. After the death of King Uroš, Queen Jelena of Anjou ruled the Serbian lands from her court. In 1378. it was occupied by the Bosnian king Tvrtko I. Since that time, the Trebinje region has been an integral part of the Bosnian state.

During Ottoman rule (from 1466 until 1878), Trebinje became an important trade and cultural centre. Then, the Austro-Hungarians brought modernization and urban development.

The old town of Trebinje, Kastel, was built on the foundations of a Roman, medieval and Turkish town, at the beginning of the XVIII century.

After the Austro-Hungarian occupation, Trebinje was a part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, and SFR Yugoslavia (1945–92). And after the Bosnian War, it belonged to the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Trebinje today

Today, Trebinje is a fantastic mix of various architecture and traditions. It has become a very popular tourist destination in the last couple of years, and it attracts more and more tourists every day.

Also, only 5 kilometres away from the city, there is The City of the Sun, the largest aqua park “Sunčana vrela” in the Balkans. Besides it, there are the luxury hotel “SL Panorama” and the apartment complex “Bijeli Grad”. Then, there are sports and recreation facilities “SL Olimp”, a wellness and spa centre, an ethnic village and Varoš bazaar, a children’s park “Dino Park”, an auto camp and a colosseum. Everything you need for relaxation and fun 🙂

What to see in Trebinje

Trebinje is the gem of Southern Bosnia and Herzegovina. Even though we spent only one day in the town, we were delighted by its Mediterranean spirit and the hospitality of the people.

So, take a look at what to see in this beautiful town…

River Trebišnjica and Old Town

River Trebišnjica and bridges

Trebinje is nestled on the banks of the River Trebišnjica, one of the largest sinking rivers in Europe.

According to some stories, there are around 50 various bridges on the Trebinje territory. But, let’s mention some of the most famous among them.

♦ Roman Bridge Vučija is located on the river Sušica, about 20 km from Trebinje, on the former Roman road which led from Dubrovnik to Montenegro. It is a masonry stone bridge with arches, built in the XIII century.

◊ In the centre of Trebinje, there is Stone Bridge, built in the early 1950s.

Trebinje, River Trebišnjica and Stone Bridge

♦ Close to it, there is the Ivo Andrić Bridge, dedicated to the famous writer.

River Trebišnjica and Ivo Andrić Bridge

◊ The most interesting bridge and the landmark of Trebinje is the Arslanagića Bridge.

The Arslanagića Bridge 

This bridge was built in 1574 by Mehmed Pasha Sokolović, as the endowment for his son who died in the battle with the Venetians.

So, in the 17th century, the Turks were pushed out of Herceg Novi, and many Turkish families moved to Trebinje. Among them was a certain Arslan-aga. According to tradition, he received estates near Trebinje and the right to collect tolls over the bridge on the Trebišnjica River. This bridge was named after him – Arslanagića Bridge.

However, there is another interesting fact about this magnificent bridge.
Its original location was 5 km upstream from Trebinje. Because of the construction of the hydropower system on Trebišnjica in 1965, the bridge sank under the water of the reservoir lake.

But, in 1966, at the request of the local authorities and the Institute for the Protection of Monuments, the water level was lowered. The bridge was dismantled, stone by stone, and it stayed like this in a nearby field for years. Then, from 1970 to 1972, it was erected again, 10 km downstream, almost in the centre of Trebinje. Since then, the bridge has become one of the most famous attractions of the town.

Arslanagića Bridge

The Arslanagića Bridge or Perovića Bridge?

Well, in 1993, the name of the bridge was changed to Perovića Bridge. It is explained by some statements that the descendants of Arslan-age were the Perovići family before they converted to Islam. Formally, it is called Perovića Bridge today, but the locals still call it by its old name.

So, the Trebišnjica is a calm river, and therefore, it is suitable for various sports, such as diving and rowing. Also, it is a favourite place for fishermen because of its large fish wealth.

And it is perfect for a walk, with beautiful views of Old Town and nature. The most popular picnic spots along the coast of a river are Lastva and Studenac.

Squares and the Old Town of Trebinje

Trg Slobode (Freedom Square), under the shade of old trees, is the favourite place for both locals and tourists. The Hotel Central, and several cafes, shops, and restaurants surround this square. Various cultural and musical events are held there as well.

In the park, you can see the Monument to the Liberators in World War I. It was erected in 1938, in the place where 77 men and two women were hanged in World War I. The small angel statue on a 5m high column is a gift from the poet Jovan Dučić to his town, for which he drew a sketch.

The Monument to the Liberators of Trebinje, and the Fountain of Baron Đuro Babić

On the other side of the park, there is the Baron Babić fountain, coloured in green. It was the first public fountain in Trebinje, built in 1890. It represents a young woman who carries a fruit basket, and the fountain is decorated with heraldic motifs and a lion’s head.
The text on her pedestal is written in Cyrillic, Latin and Arabic script, symbolising the former multi-religious structure of Trebinje.

Trebinje, fountain in Jovan Dučić Street

Trebinje City Market

Since the end of the 19th century, on Saturday, Freedom Square was the local Greenmarket,  There, you can find various local products, fruit, vegetables, cheese, jams, liqueurs, flowers, and handmade cosmetic products.

Local products on Greenmarket

Also, there is a building in the City market, where all products are stored in hygienic conditions and at the appropriate temperature. So, there you can buy various types of chees, dairy products, honey, meat, fish, and beverages.

Trebinje City market-Gradska tržnica

Trg pesnika – Square of Poets

Next to Freedom Square, there is a Trg pesnika (the Square of Poets) with 16 beautiful plane trees.

According to a local story, Baron Djuro Babić arrived in Trebinje in 1895 during Austrian-Hungarian rule. He was the city’s commander, and he had a sickly daughter. Unfortunately, she died at the age of 16. In her honour, Baron Babić planted 16 plane trees in the city centre. Today, they are a symbol of the town.

Coffee time under the plane trees

Jovan Dučić, the most famous person from Trebinje

By the way, the Square of Poets and several monuments are gifts to the town from Jovan Dučić.
He was a famous poet and Serbian-Yugoslavian diplomat, born in 1874 in Trebinje. One of his most famous works is the book “The Treasure of Emperor Radovan”. He did a lot for the development of Trebinje, including founding the park, national museum, monuments…

So, from 1910, Dučić was in diplomatic service in Constantinople, Sofia, Rome, Athens, Madrid, and Cairo. He died and was buried in the USA in 1943. But, his last wish was to be buried in his beloved Trebinje, and it was fulfilled on 22 October 2000, when he was reburied in the church of Hercegovačka Gračanica.

Jovan Dučić’s private life

By the way, Jovan Dučić was known as the conqueror of many women’s hearts, but he never married.

After breaking up with Dučić, his secret fiancée Magdalena vowed that she never would leave the house again. She lived off memories and found happiness in reading the letters and poems of the man she loved.
From a love affair with actress Jovanka Jovanović, he had an illegitimate son. Unfortunately, he committed suicide as a young man.

There is a story about a rich Hungarian woman who fell in love with Jovan Dučić. She gave him a house in the centre of Budapest. However, Dučić bequeathed this building to the Serbian state. Today, it is the place of the Serbian embassy in Hungary.

The monument and the mural of Jovan Dučić, and the lion statues in the park

City park “Jovan Dučić”

Next to his statue, there are two lion statues at the entrance to the City park, named after Jovan Dučić. The park is a perfect place for a relaxing walk, both for locals and tourists.

Across the statue of Jovan Dučić, you can see the statue of Njegoš, a Montenegrin ruler, bishop, poet and philosopher. It was the first monument honouring Petar II Petrović Njegoš in the world, erected in 1934.

A monument to Njegoš in the Park with plane trees

Also, in the Park “Jovan Dučić”, you can see a monument erected in honour of the fallen soldiers from the Trebinje region in World War II and the victory over fascism. Close to it, there is a building of the Cultural Centre and a fountain.

City Park “Jovan Dučić”

Statue of Helene of Anjou

Across the city park, there is one more of Jovan Dučić’ gifts to the town. It is the small statue of Helene of Anjou, mounted on the old town wall. She was the Serbian Queen, wife of Stefan Uroš I and mother of kings Dragutin and Milutin.

The monument is mounted on the old town wall, in a memory of her frequent visits to her court in Trebinje.

Trebinje, the monument to Helene of Anjou

Churches in the Park “Jovan Dučić”

The impressive Orthodox Church is dedicated to the Holy Transfiguration of God. It was built from 1888 to 1908. In front of the church, you can see a statue of the beloved Serbian Patriarch Pavle.

The Church of the Holy Transfiguration of God, and the statue of Patriarch Pavle

Interesting interior of the Church of the Holy Transfiguration of God

The interior of the church is a mix of various styles, but it is beautifully decorated.

Trebinje, the Church of the Holy Transfiguration of God

It is also known for an unusual choice of figures on the walls. Actually, besides the saints, there are paintings of famous figures from Serbian history: poets Petar II Petrović Njegoš, Aleksa Šantić, Jovan Dučić; scientists Nikola Tesla, Mihajlo Pupin, Milutin Milanković; dukes Živojin Mišić and Stepa Stepanović; rulers Karađorđe, Miloš Obilić, and Prince Lazar.

Paintings of famous figures from Serbian history in the Church of the Holy Transfiguration of God

Close to this church, there is the Catholic Cathedral of The Holy Mother of God. It was built in 1880-1884 when the Austrian-Hungarian army came there.

Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God

The Old Town of Trebinje

The heart of Trebinje is a beautiful Old Town, also known as Kastel. We had a feeling that time had stopped during our walk in its cobblestone alleys. There you can see small stone houses, cosy cafés, mosques, and artisan shops.

The present-day form of the fortress, Ban-Vir, was built in 1706 by Osman-paša Resulbegović.

By the way, the square of Travunia is now under reconstruction because of archaeological research of house remains.

Old Town Square of Trebinje

Going around, you can take a break for coffee, ice cream or cake at the popular Grk Bard cafe-pastry. Close to it, there is a 300-year-old olive tree from Spain, a donation of the Republic of Serbia in 2022.

Old Town: Grk Bard Café-pastry shop, and 300-year-old olive tree

The Museum of Herzegovina was founded in 1952, based on an original idea of Jovan Dučić. There are permanent archaeological, ancient, and ethnographic exhibits.  Then, there is a collection of paintings by academic painters, and the collection of Jovan Dučić, with valuable art exhibits, tapestries, his ambassador suite, manuscripts and medals.

Opening time: every day from 8 AM to 8 PM, on Saturdays from 10 AM to 8 PM,) and on Sundays from 2 PM to 8 PM.
The ticket price is 3 convertible marks for individual visits and 2 convertible marks for group visits from the Serbian-speaking area. Foreigners pay 5 marks individually, and 4 marks in group visits.

The Museum of Herzegovina

The mosques in Trebinje

Osman Pasha Resulbegović built two mosques that we can see today. They are National Monuments of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Osman Pasha Mosque was built in 1726. It is one of the most important Islamic monuments in the region.

But, after the construction, Osman-pasha was accused in Istanbul for building a more beautiful mosque in his name than in emperor’s mosque. That is why Sultan Ahmed III issued an order to execute him and his nine sons. Osman-pasha went to Istanbul to beg for pardon, but with no success, he was executed in 1729.

Osman-pasha Mosque

The second one is a smaller Sultan Ahmed Mosque, also known as Emperor’s Mosque. It is situated near the right bank of the Trebišnjica River. It was built in honour of Sultan Ahmed III in 1719.

Old Town, Sultan Ahmed Mosque

Andjelka’s Gate

One of the very popular modern spots of town is Andjelka’s Gate.

So, if you are a fan of Serbian TV dramas, you are familiar with one of the most famous series “Ranjeni orao” (Wounded Eagle). It was filmed in Trebinje in 2008, and through this gate, Andjelka (an actress Sloboda Mićalović) entered the courtyard of a house.

But, all the scenes inside the house were filmed in Belgrade, not there. However, many visitors would like to take photos in front of the gate, which has become a very popular tourist spot in Trebinje.

Andjelka’s Gate

Where to eat and drink inTrebinje

Trebinje is known for its delicious local food, a fusion of Balkan, Mediterranean, and Ottoman cuisines.

Some of the popular restaurants are located in the Old Town, such as Kolo, Ras, and Platani, with local and international specialities. Ćevapčinica Kastel “Kod Mura” has a tradition from 1970, and it is known for grilled meats and ćevapi.

Taste authentic specialities such as veal and lamb under the sach, cicvara, homemade bread, sack cheese or cheese from oil, and homemade Herzegovinian brandy.

Trebinje Old Town: Kolo Restaurant, Ćevapdžinica Kastel Kod Mura, Ras restaurant

Owing to the Mediterranean climate and fertile land, this region is ideal for vineyards. Some of the famous Herzegovina wines are Žilavka and Vranac wines, a perfect match with local cheese and prosciutto.

If you are a wine lover, visit some of the famous wineries such as Vukoje Wine Cellar, Monastery Tvrdoš, Wine Cellar“Berak”, Winery Vera, Winery Andjelić, etc.

Accommodation in Trebinje

Trebinje has a growing range of accommodation options, from boutique hotels to affordable apartments, available for rent through Airbnb or Booking.com.

♦ Hotel Central Park 4* is one of the most famous hotels in Trebinje. It is a stylish hotel located in the central Freedom Square near the Old Town. We stayed in this hotel during our visit to Trebinje, and it has the perfect location and excellent amenities.

◊ Hotel Platani is housed in a beautiful historic building in the centre of the city. It is an elegant and traditional hotel, with a beautiful garden surrounded by old platans.

Hotel Central Park (first line), Spa Hotel Integra, Hotel Leotar, Hotel Platani

♦ Spa Hotel Integra 4* is nestled at the entrance of the Old Town. This boutique hotel has luxury rooms, a restaurant and a spa centre.

◊ Hotel Leotar 3* is located along the river Trebišnjica. It was built in Herzegovinian-Mediterranean style, and it is surrounded by greenery.

♦ Hotel Studenac is located 3,5 km from the centre, on the riverbank, with luxurious rooms, a spa, and a restaurant in traditional Herzegovian style.

◊ Villa Pergola is located 1,4 km from the centre. It is a family guesthouse surrounded by greenery, perfect for a peaceful stay. There is a restaurant with a terrace and a wine bar.

Events and Festivals

During the spring and summer, various street performances, and cultural and music events are held in Trebinje.

But, there is a special one: Wine Fine Trebinje.
We had the fortune to be in Trebinje this year on the 3rd of May when the second International Wine Fine Festival was held. In the centre, at Trg Slobode, 48 exhibitors from BiH, Serbia, Croatia and Montenegro participated, presenting the best wines, brandies and Herzegovinian specialities.

🍷 With a tasting glass (25 KM or 12 EUR), you could enjoy sips of excellent wines. And while the senses enjoyed the authentic aromas of the region, the soul was taken care of by guitar virtuoso Adi Šarenac from Trebinje and the band “Castel Nuovo” from Herceg Novi.

And then, nostalgia. We went back to the time when we listened to the most famous ex-Yugoslavian musicians, such as Azra, Oliver Dragojević, Bijelo Dugme, Merlin, Film, Zdravko Čolić, Magazin, Novi Fosili, Električni Orgazam, Kemal Monteno, Al Dino…
It was a fantastic concert and event 🙂

The Monastery of Tvrdoš

The Tvrdoš Monastery was built 5 km west of the town of Tvrdoš, on the rock near the right bank of the Trebišnjica River. It is surrounded by vineyards.

The vineyard and the Tvrdoš Monastery

The monastery church is dedicated to the Dormition of the Most Holy Theotokos (Virgin Mary).

Trebinje, the Tvrdoš Monastery

It was built on the foundations of a church from the 4th century, founded by the Holy Emperor Constantine and his mother Jelena.

The Church of the Tvrdoš Monastery

Well, it was amazing to see the foundation of this old church on the floor, protected by glass.

The glass floor and mosaics in the Tvrdoš Monastery

Later, the monastery was destroyed and abandoned for centuries. It became the endowment of the Serbian King Milutin at the end of the 13th or the beginning of the 14th century. So, the cathedral was constructed in 1509, and the Orthodox monastery was established.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, Tvrdoš was the seat of the Hum-Herzegovina-Trebinje episcopacy. Then, it was destroyed in 1694, during the Turkish-Venetian war. Monks took relics and moved to Monastery Savina (Herceg Novi) and Monastery Duži.

By the way, after many years, the monastery, church and old lodge were rebuilt in 1928 thanks to a donation by Nikola Runjevac, a wealthy Trebinian who emigrated to the USA.

Then, the monastery was abandoned again, until 1989. The church was restored, new lodgings were built, vineyards were planted and a new wine cellar was built.

Also, in 1992, one holy hand was brought from the Monastery Duži to Tvrdos. It is believed that it is the hand of Saint Helen Anjou, the Queen mother of kings Milutin and Dragutin.

Vasilije Ostroški in Monastery Tvrdoš

The Tvrdoš Monastery is also known after Saint Vasiije Ostroški, one of the saints of the Serbian Orthodox Church.
He was born in a village close to Trebinje, and from 1630 to 1635, he became a monk in this monastery. A few years later, in 1639, he became the bishop of Zahumlje and Skenderija.

Saint Vasilije died in 1671, and he was buried at the Ostrog Monastery which he had founded in Montenegro. This cave-church with his tomb became a very important site for Christian pilgrims.

Inside of the church, Tvrdoš Monastery

Note: both men and women should be covered to the ankles or wear a skirt provided at the entrance of the monastery.

Painting walls of the church of the Tvrdoš Monastery

Wines of the Monastery of Tvrdoš

Besides its turbulent history, the Tvrdoš Monastery is known for its long tradition of winemaking which dates back to the 15^th century.

Owing to previous renovations, wine production continues. It is possible to taste the wine, to explore excellent wines, such as Vranac, Žilavka, and Metox, made in traditional oak barrels that are several centuries old. Also, they produce Travarica and Lozovača, traditional rakias.

You can buy all of them in the monastery souvenir shop. Wine can be bought in bottles, but there is also a package in 5-litre gallons. Also, in the souvenir shop, you can find a wide range of various souvenirs, icons, magnets and local products.

Wines and rakias of the Tvrdoš Monastery

Hercegovačka Gračanica

The beautiful monastery complex of the Hercegovčka Gračanica is located on the Crkvina Hill, close to the centre of Trebinje. It belongs to Zahum-Herzegovina and Primorsky Eparchy. 

Church of the Hercegovačka Gračanica

Once, there was the church of St. Michael, a medieval endowment of King Milutin. But today’s church was built on the model of the Gračanica monastery church from Kosovo and Metohija.

Stunning Hercegovačla Gračanica

There are 16 white marble columns inside of the church. All of them are square-shaped, but only one has a circular base on a stone brought from Gračanica, Kosovo. According to legend, the stone carried from the hearth brings the spirit of the old house into the new one.

The church is vividly painted with an influence of Byzantine painting.

The church columns of the Hercegovačka Gračanica

The motifs on the church floor are taken from the floor of the monastery of the Holy Archangels near Prizren, the endowment of Dušan the Strong.

Trebinje, the floor of the Hercegovačka Gračanica Church

The grave of Jovan Dučić

By the way, today’s church was built in 2000, as the endowment of Branko Tupanjac (a Herzegovian-American businessman) and his wife Radmila.

Actually, in his Last Will, Jovan Dučić expressed the desire to be buried in his beloved Trebinje, in the church that looks like a church of Gračanica in Kosovo. So, in 1943, he was buried near the church of St Sava in Libertyville, Indiana (USA).

But, almost 60 years after his death, his remains were transferred to the new church in 2000, thanking the donation of Branko Tupanjac. Even though Dučić was a famous and awarded diplomat, “The Prince of Poet” wanted just one word with his name as the inscription on the grave. It was “Pesnik” – a “Poet”, and that is how it is…

The grave of Jovan Dučić in the church of Hercegovačka Gračanica

Within the monastery complex, there is also a parish house, a souvenir shop with various items, an amphitheatre, a museum, and a cafe with a summer garden.

The church and bell tower of the Hercegovačka Gračanica

From the hill, there is a magnificent panoramic view of Trebinje and Arslanagića Bridge.

Panoramic view of Trebinje and Arslanagića Bridge

Souvenirs from Trebinje

I have already mentioned what you can buy in Trebinje as a gift to your beloved and for yourself 🙂

♦ Local products, handmade cosmetic products, liqueurs: the local Greenmarket on Saturdays.
◊ Local wines and brandies: winery of Monastery Tvrdoš, souvenir shop in Hercegovačka Gračanica and various wineries on Trebinje territory.
♦ Various souvenirs (magnets, handmade jewellery, handcrafts) in the Old Town and souvenir shops.
◊ Near the park with plane trees, there is an organic shop “Hercegovačka kuća” (Herzgeg house”). There you can find many local products, wines, honey, jams, cheese, prosciutto, tea, spices, juices, cosmetic products…

Some souvenirs from Trebinje

Visit Trebinje, the town of sun, wine and plane trees 

I have to say that I was delighted by this town of sun and wine.

It was such a fantastic pleasure sitting under the shades of old plane trees, drinking coffee, while a light wind moved its tops, and the sun’s rays passed through them.

Whether you’re wandering along its old streets, sipping wine by the river, or watching the sunset from Crkvina Hill, you’ll feel a sense of peace and connection with the town.

Trebinje and River Trebišnjica

Stay tuned. In the next blog post, I’ll take you to nearby Dubrovnik, the perfect day trip from Trebinje!

👉 Read more: Dubrovnik, visit the pearl of Adriatic