Agios Nikolaos, the jewel of Crete

Agios Nikolaos is nestled along the picturesque coastline of northeastern Crete. It is a charming town that perfectly blends natural beauty, cultural heritage, and present time.

Known for its harbour, stunning lake in the town centre, vibrant atmosphere, and proximity to beautiful beaches, Agios Nikolaos offers something for every traveller.

 

 

How to get to Agios Nikolaos 

Agios Nikolaos is the administrative centre of the Lasithi region. It is located on the west side of the Gulf of Mirabello, 65 kilometres east of Heraklion, Crete’s capital. You can reach the town in several ways.

♦ By air: The nearest airport is Heraklion International Airport, which is connected to Athens, Thessaloniki, and major European cities. There is also a small airport in Sitia that serves domestic flights.
◊ By car: The fastest way is to rent a car from Heraklion airport or port. The drive along the highway takes about an hour and offers beautiful coastline views.
♦ By bus: Public buses from Heraklion and other towns run frequently and are a budget-friendly option, just check the KTEL schedule.
◊ By ferry: If you arrive in Crete from Athens (Piraeus) or another Greek island, ferries go to Heraklion, Chania, and Sitia. From these ports, you can continue to Agios Nikolaos by car or bus.

 

A few words about the history of Agios Nikolaos 

Remains of an ancient house of Kamara in Agios Nikolaos

 

The town got its name after the Byzantine chapel of Agios Nikolaos, located next to today’s “Minos Palace” hotel, on the Ammoudi peninsula.

According to historical testimonies, Agios Nikolaos was founded with the fall of the Byzantine Empire (1204), when Crete was sold to the Venetians. However, Enrico Pescatore, a Genovese adventurer and pirate, built a fortress on top of a hill in 1206. The fortress was given the name “Mirabello” which means “Beautiful View”. Today, the gulf and this part are named “The Gulf of Mirabello” because of its beautiful views over the area. By the way, Ottomans ruined the fortress during their rule.

Agios Nikolaos in modern times

So, after the Cretan revolution (1866-1869), the community started to grow. It became the capital of the Lasithi region in 1924.

By the way, tourism started to develop there in the 1960s and the 1970s with the first luxury hotels and resorts. Agios Nikolaos became a popular tourist destination and attracts more and more tourists every year.
Approximately 30,000 people live in the city today.

Charming cafe in Kyprion Agoniston Street

 

What to see and do in Agios Nikolaos 

Agios Nikolaos means Saint Nicholas – Nikolas, which is one of the favourite masculine names in Greece and Cyprus. The town is named after Saint Nicholas of Myra (270- 343), an early Christian Greek bishop during the time of the Roman Empire. He is known for many miracles and he is the patron saint of sailors, fishermen, merchants, children, and the entire Greece.

The Salt Lake Voulismeni 

The most important landmark of the town is the beautiful Lake Voulismeni. The locals call it just “The Lake”, and various stories are connected with it.

According to mythology, the goddess Athena and Artemis once bathed in this magnificent lake. It was believed that the lake was bottomless and guarded by underground spirits. Also, it is believed that everything thrown inside disappeared, including the German tanks and vehicles at the end of the Second World War.

Once, it was a circular freshwater lake. It is 134 metres wide and surrounded by steep rocky cliffs on one side. The first measurement of depth was made by Captain Thomas Spratt in 1852, and it was 64 metres. After the huge Crete earthquake in 1856 (almost 8 degrees on the Richter scale), one cliff collapsed in the lake. It probably blocked the freshwater spring leading to the later stagnation, and the lake became “stinky”.

Because of this, a solution was to dig a channel into the nearby sea. The first channel was dug by Kostas Adosides Pasha, the Ottoman governor of Lasithi. The wider canal was made by the French Army between 1905 and 1907, which can be seen today.

 

The Lake today

The new measurements showed that the lake’s depth is 48,8 metres. Also, the famous marine explorer Jacques Cousteau confirmed it in 1967, but he and his team found nothing on the lake’s bottom. The modern road bridge was opened in 1967.

 

Today, the Lake is very popular both for locals and tourists. On the other side, there are cafes and restaurants where visitors can enjoy food and drinks with a spectacular view. The Folklore Museum is also located near the lake, representing Crete tradition.

 

There is a path around the lake, and don’t be surprised if you see ducks walking freely among the tourists and restaurants 🙂

 

Near the lake, there is a small white chapel. It is the Fisherman’s Church, dedicated to the safety of the lake’s fishermen. Inside the church, there is a 25-meter crypt, like a sailing museum, with old items. Even though we walked around the lake several times, it was always closed.

 

From the top of the cliff and park, you can enjoy a beautiful panoramic view of the lake, town and port.

 

Around the cliff, there are several cafes and restaurants as well.

 

Also, the lake looks amazing at night when the cliffs are lit up, creating reflections across the water. 

 

Kitroplatia – Citrus Square

Kitroplatia Square is located about 200 meters west of Lake Voulismeni. It is surrounded by cafes, taverns, and shops. There is also a small pebbled-sandy beach with the same name. The name of the square derives from the citrus market which was in this place until the 20^th century.

 

Horn of Almathia

An interesting statue of the Horn of Almathia is located near Kitroplateia Square. It is one of the landmarks of Agios Nikolaos.  The statue was designed and created by brothers, Nikos and Pantelis Sotiriades in 2000, and it is connected with the myth of Zeus. 

 

The Goddess Rhea, the mother of Zeus hid him from his father in the cave on Mount Ida. The goat Almathea nourished Zeus until he grew up. One day, while playing, Zeus accidentally broke one of her horns. He felt terribly, and he blessed the damaged horn adding a hole, which meant that its owner would find everything he desired in it.
So, this horn became known as a Cornucopia, an eternal symbol of abundance. 

 

The Abduction of Europa

The sculptors Nikos and Pantelis Sotiriades made another landmark of the town in 2012. It is the sculpture of the Abduction of Europa, designed by the Cretan film director Nikos Koundouros. This bronze sculpture is 6 meters high and it weighs almost 6 tons. It is located close to the statue of the Horn of Almathia and at the end of a parking lot in the port area.

 

The sculpture is also connected with the god Zeus. However, he fell in love with the Phoenician Princess Europa and transformed into a beautiful white bull to approach her. The bull captured her and her friends. Europa tried to ride the bull, but Zeus took a chance and ran into the sea, taking Europe with him south of Crete, on the Matala beach. From this relationship, Europe gave birth to three sons, and one of them was Minos, the king of Crete and the founder of the Minoan civilization.

👉🏖️ You can read more about the stunning Matala beach and caves here.

In front of the statue of Europe sitting on the back of a giant bull, there is a statement carved in stones in English and Greek languages. “Europe is my name. I am the daughter of the Phoenician King Aginoras and mother of King Minos, creator of the Minoan civilization.”

 

Churches in Agios Nikolaos

I have already mentioned the small Byzantine Chapel of Agios Nikolaos, after which the town got its name. It is located about 2 km from the town, near the Minos Palace Hotel, on the Ammoudi peninsula. The church dates back to the 10th century, and fragments of old frescoes can be seen even today.
Besides that, there are several interesting churches that you can visit in Agios Nikolaos.

Panagia Vrefotrofos  – Church of the Nursing Virgin Mary

This small church is located in the old part of the town. The original church dates back to the 12th century, while the fragments of frescos are from the 14th century. Inside the church, there is a monumental tomb of the Venetian noble Lavrentios Malipiero. On the top of the tomb, a Latin inscription bears the date of 1602. The Feast days of the church are the 8th of September and the 3rd of February.

 

Agia Triada – Church of the Holy Trinity

The Church of Agia Triada is located in the centre of town. It is a triple-aisle basilica with a dome, founded in the 20th century. The church is dedicated to Agia Triada – Three Hierarchs, and the Presentation of the Virgin Mary.

 

It is richly decorated with frescoes of Byzantine Hagiography trends.

 

A small stone Saint Athanasius Church is located in the pedestrian Roussou Koundourou street.

 

Close to the port, there are the Church of Saint George (left on photo) and the Saint Irene Church (right).

 

The port and marina of Agios Nikolaos 

The harbour of Agios Nikolaos is a vibrant spot, located in the centre of town. It is a very popular stop for cruise ships, as well. Around the port, there are many cafes, restaurants, shops with various products, apartments and small hotels.

 

The Marina Agios Nikolaos is filled with yachts and fishing boats. It has all the modern facilities and services.

 

Accommodation in Agios Nikolaos

Depending on your interests and budget, you can choose between apartments, guesthouses, hostels, small boutique hotels or family hotels.
Some of the most luxurious resorts are Minos Palace Resort (adults only), Mirabello Bay Luxury Resort, Daios Cove, etc. Also, the Elounda area is known for its luxurious hotel resorts.

Approximately, a mid-range hotel or guesthouse might cost from 50 to 150 EUR per night. Luxury hotels and resorts can range from 150 to 300 EUR or more per night.

 

Cafes and restaurants

There are many bars, cafes, taverns and restaurants in Agios Nikolaos.
Dining costs can vary depending on the type of restaurant. For example, a meal at a local tavern can cost approximately 15 to 25 EUR per person, while a meal for two people at a mid-range restaurant can cost around 40 to 70 EUR.

Here are some of the popular restaurants and bars around Lake Voulismeni, the favourite tourist spot.

♦ Migomis Piano Restaurant is located in a house from 1890, on the cliff, perfect for a romantic dinner.
◊ Karnagio Restaurant serves dishes made from only Cretan products and herbs.
♦ La Strada, a family-owned restaurant overlooking the lake.
◊ ARC Espresso & Cocktail Bar is a bar from which you can enjoy a panoramic view of the lake and town.
♦ Skala by the Lake, a restaurant with Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, near the lake.

 

Basilico Italian restaurant and Kyma restaurant are located near the Ammos beach, overlooking the sea and marina.

 

Close to the port, you can find Creta Embassy Tavern and Pelagos Fish Tavern which serves various Mediterranean and vegan dishes.

 

The Pelagos restaurant is beautifully and richly decorated with a wall fountain, flowers, and many colourful details.

 

During the peak season, it can be crowded, so make a reservation for lunch or dinner.

 

One of our favourite taverns was located near the Agia Triada Church. I don’t know if they changed the name or the owner (once “Poya”, today “Yiasemi” Meze Restaurant), but the food was delicious, and it was popular with both locals and tourists.

 

Beaches around Agios Nikolaos 

There are several beaches close to the centre of the town. I will write about them in the following post.
Let’s just mention some of the most popular beaches in this area.

Kitroplatia is a pebble well-organized beach, located in the centre, on Kitroplatia Square.
Ammoudi Beach, Minos Beach, and Havania Beach are located on the western side of the centre.
Ammos Beach is a sandy beach close to the marina. It is a nice organized beach, surrounded by a few excellent taverns.

Almyros Beach is about two kilometres away from the town. It is a big sandy beach with shallow water, known for the river which flows into the sea. Also, behind the beach, there is a wetland protected by the Natura 2000 program.

 

Voulisma Beach

Known as “Golden Beach,” Voulisma is located about 10 km from the town. We were captured by this long, sandy beach with turquoise water and waves. It is one of the best beaches in Crete.

 

Vai Beach

Vai Beach is one the most beautiful beaches in Crete and Greece, as well. It is known for the 5,000 palm trees which surround the bay and beach. Even though it is located 94 km east of Agios Nikolaos, it is worth visiting and spending one day on this exotic beach under the palm trees.

 

Chrissi Island

The uninhabited Chrissi Island is surrounded by the Lybian Sea. It is accessible by boat from Ierapetra on the south of Crete. The island is known for its turquoise water, sandy beaches and cedar forest.

We visited Chrissi Island in September 2021 with a guided tour from Agios Nikolaos. From 2022, visitors are not allowed to disembark on the island. The reason is the protection of the unique natural ecosystem of the island. In the present time, the ship approaches close to it, and visitors have to swim if they like to visit the beach.

 

Excursions from Agios Nikolaos

Besides relaxing on beautiful beaches, there are several interesting locations that you can visit in the Lasithi region. Take a look at some of them and make a plan for your incredible vacation.

Spinalonga, Elounda and Plaka

A boat trip to Spinalonga Island is something special, and I am sure that you will remember it forever. It is known by the well-preserved Venetian fortress, but also something else. It was a leper colony from 1903 to 1957, for patients from Crete and the rest of Greece. Today, it is a famous tourist attraction.

👉 You can read more about the history of Spinalonga, life and lost dreams in a leper colony here:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Elounda and Plaka are located opposite Spinalonga.
Elounda is a village about 12 km away from Agios Nikolaos. You can visit it by car or KTEL bus. Today is mostly known as a tourist spot with luxury resorts. Plaka village is located a few kilometres away, known for seafood taverns.

Both villages are mentioned in Victoria Hislop’s novel The Island, the story about Spinalonga, a leper and the tragic destiny of its inhabitants. By the way, this novel was adapted for Greek television and aired as a mini-series in 2010-2011. I highly recommend this amazing book.

 

Village of Kritsa

Kritsa is a beautiful village nestled 10 km from Agios Nikolaos, in the hills. You can reach it by car, by bus or by a blue local train from the port, as we did. Well, it was a real adventure!
During the guided tour, we visited an olive oil fabric, the Byzantine Church of Panagia Kera from the 13th century with stunning frescoes, and a traditional Kritsa village.

You can read more about this picturesque village and Cretan life in the following post.

 

Depending on your time, you can visit some of the following locations.

♦ Lasithi Plateaux with Zeus Cave.
◊ Sarakino Gorge.
♦ Catamaran cruises in the Mirabello Bay.
◊ Off-road Crete Safari in a Land Rover vehicle.
♦ Gastronomy tours (olive oil tasting, wine tour, traditional Greek food).

 

Shopping in Agios Nikolaos 

Two main pedestrian streets are 28is Oktovriou Street and Roussou Koundourou Street. There, you can find various products, fashion stores of local and international brands and souvenirs for your beloved, and for yourself, as well 🙂

Buy some of the Cretan products such as olives, olive oil, spices, honey, cheese, wine, raki, traditional sweets, etc.
Nice gifts can be handcrafted jewellery, leather goods or ceramics items.

Also, you can find shops in small alleys around the lake and port.

 

The Street Art

While we were walking around the town, we saw these interesting decorated stairs with the Minotaur bull and sea scenes. They were part of the artistic project from 2018, known as “The Spirit of the Stairs”.

 

Why Visit Agios Nikolaos?

Agios Nikolaos is a place where you can feel the Cretan life, discover ancient artefacts, and enjoy fascinating nature and beaches. 

It is the perfect base to explore the towns and villages in the Lasithi region, as well. On the other side, you will certainly enjoy strolling around the town and walking along the port and marina.
Taste traditional Greek food, wine or ouzo in taverns and cafes with a fascinating view of the Lake Voulismeni.

And be happy soaking in the sun and feeling fresh salt air, leaving only your footprints on the beach.